Santa Cruz trek: a few days in the mountains.
I had to get away from the city and those mountains with their dominance over
Huaraz's skyline beckon my attention. Steph wasn't up to an elevated multi-day
hike so we elected to pursue our own interests for the next few days. As it
turns out she ended up almost as high as I did anyway. (For a different perspective, Steph's blog is an
interesting read: Steph Over Seas)
We went into town to see what our options are. I booked a trip with a group to
do the Santa Cruz trek and Steph chose to do some day trips starting with a
horse ride and leaving the rest until she determine how she was coping with
the altitude.
As a side note, it was the first time I tried altitude sickness drugs
(Diamox). normally I am reticent about taking drugs of any sort, but knowing
the small window of time to acclimatize I decided to give them a go. I am
impressed. They work well, though do have a side effect of giving you
pins and needles in your hands and feet.
I found a tour group which had the appearance of providing good service and
with a quick bit of phone research we found they were also supported with
positive comments by attendees via TripAdvisor. The group size was 10 persons
including the guides and me so I was happy from that respect ie not too big.
Before I knew it, I was on the bus heading into the allure of the high
mountains.
The journey seemed to be endless with the hours in the minibus driving on long
windy roads. Fortunately the scenery became ever more tantalizing as we became
more proximate. The odd flat added some distracting entertainment and also
provided a needed break from our prolonged seated position. The views down,
within and up the valley form the bus were sublime. I am hoping that Steph
took at least a day trip to this area (which she did).
I elected to take my own tent and sleeping gear, though the company was well
equipped to provide it. I have comfort in knowing my gear: it is high
quality, is clean and can provide the shelter I need. Being light weight, I am
sure the mules appreciated the lower load too. I also pitch the tent myself to
ensure no damage occurs through lack of experience that the assistants might
have with it. (Something hard learnt on a previous expedition style trip I
had). The tent by the way is a Zpacks Hexamid duplex tent, it weighs around
500g, using the trekking poles as support. My poles are Gossamer Gear LT2
carbon fibre weighing 250g for the pair . Having this light gear makes
it much easier for travel overall.
The views along this trek were breathtaking, and physically demanding as we
are continuously ascending 2 days to over 4700 metres. Sublime is a
great word to describe the walk - it is like walking in a dream which lasts
for days. Every step is a vantage point and one that you want to linger on.
Though I could carry my gear, it is a tough undertaking even with 12kg at
these altitudes. The locals earn some much needed money from us and welcome us
in their villages.
The small alpine flowers always provide a welcome flutter of beauty. There is
some admiration in that burst of energy promoting their life's validity in
that pretty shot of colour within the drab surrounds.
Up and over, the high pass is reached too soon. The walk up was hard work, but
its all forgotten with the realisation that it's mostly down here on in.
We pass a view of the 'Paramount Pictures icon'. Is it or isn't it ? Like the
Coca Cola recipe it is a guarded secret. A good marketing effort based on
conjecture: I don't care either way.
I enjoyed being with the group, our dynamic worked well. We had good
conversation and most of us liked the odd card game. The weather was on our
side and the views amazing all the way. The trekking company provided us with
good food and support including portable toilets for hygiene / environment
consideration. We had one annoying drone pilot - a guide - from another
trekking group. Fortunately we were able to distance ourselves most of the
time and eventually he got the message that others want and should be able to
enjoy peace in this sublime area without being annoyed by the buzzing of a
drone. I am glad Peru is banning them in a lot of parks and public areas.
The Santa Cruz trek, after 4 days out, I am back. I enjoyed the walk and
camping, it was great to get away from the city hubbub. A mostly positive
experience. Healthwise I did have a headache on day 2 after scaling 4750m and
camping at 4200m. To be expected I guess, drugs and our bodies do have their
limitations. With the short lead time to acclimate and a lingering cough, and
I was probably dehydrated as well - it's quite an unreasonable demand to make
and I knew it was a gamble. Happy I am that I added and ticked this off the
bucket list. The walk is up there in spectacle with the other alpine treks
I've done - a nice condensed package.
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